How to Sew a Duplicate Stitch
Since my last tutorial was such a hit, I figured I would do another one, this time on how to sew (or is it knit) a duplicate stitch. I found learning how to sew a duplicate stitch to be so helpful in several of my recent projects that I thought I would pass along what I have learned.
In my example, I used my Bluestone Pullover I recently completed. I absolutely fell in love with this pattern as soon as I saw it and knew I just had to knit it. The only problem was the sleeves. I can knit colorwork in the round on small circumference needles, but it is not my favorite. This pattern however called for instria colorwork knitting which I have never done before. How hard could it be I thought to myself. Well, for me it turns out very hard indeed. I’m sure with lots of practice it won’t be that bad, but just starting off I found it to be very difficult and after a few attempts I gave up. I had two choices at this point, either knit the sleeves without the amazing colorwork motif, or use duplicate stitch to get the same effect. Obviously, I chose the latter and am thrilled with how it turned out. I was worried it was going to add all this extra bulk to my sweater but I can’t even tell. The sleeve motif is meant to be like an elbow patch so even if there a little extra bulk it wouldn’t really matter anyway.
Materials needed: finished knitted piece blocked and fully dry, darning needle, removable locking stitch markers, yarn, scissors.
Step 1. Knit the sleeves in the round per the pattern placing removable locking stitch markers at the start and the end of where the colorwork motif is intended to go. I also placed markers along the center spine of the motif every 10 rnds to help me keep track of where I was in the pattern. I chose every 10 rnds because this is a rather long motif, but you can shorten this depending on the length of the motif.
Stitch markers outlining where the duplicate stitch will go
Step 2. Block and allow the piece to completely dry. Knitted work should always be blocked and allowed to completely dry before using duplicate stitch, if you skip this step your tension can get wonky as the yarn will grow or shrink once washed.
Step 3. You can honestly use whatever length of yarn you want, there are pros and cons to using long or short amounts of yarn. If using a shorter length, you have less pulling through of the yarn each time and less risk for tangles but you may have to weave in a lot of ends. If using a longer length of yarn there is a higher risk of tangles and a lot of yarn to pull through in the beginning but you have less ends to weave in. I went with the long length and only have 4 ends to weave in at the end.
Step 4. With your work facing you, right side up, find where the first stitch of the colorwork motif should be. The stitches will look like little V shapes running upwards. Using your needle with yarn threaded through, insert the needle into the V directly below the first colorwork stitch.
Step 4b. turn your work inside out and pull 6-10 inches of yarn through and weave in your end with your preferred method, this will allow for your yarn to be secured while working your duplicate stitch and then you don’t have to worry about accidently not having enough of a tail to weave in at the end.
Duplicate stitch already in progress, look at all the V stitches
Inserting the needle 1 V above where the tip is pointing
What it looks like for the very first stitch with the yarn coming out of the 1st V
Step 5. Locate the V directly above the stitch you are wanting to create (meaning your yarn is coming out of the V directly below and you are aiming for the stitch above; you will have skipped the stitch you are wanting to make). Insert the needle sideways through the stitch and pull yarn through being carful not to pull too hard, trying to copy the tension of the original stitch you are replacing.
Inserting the needle directly above the intended stitch where the needle tip is pointing
Inserting the needle into the V directly above the intended stitch
Step 6. Going back into the V below where your yarn originally came out of insert your needle back into the V.
Step 6b. It is good to look ahead to see where your next stitch will be. The wonderful thing about duplicate stitch is you can go in any direction you want. Up, down, left, right, diagonal it really doesn’t matter. I work right to left just because that is how the pattern is read and it makes it easier for me to follow, but you can go whatever way you want.
Locate the 1st V you came out of
Example of what the 1st stitch will look like
Step 7. Your needle should be in the V of your first stitch, pivoting the needle end, locate the next stitch and have the needle come out the V below the next intended stitch. This can be a little tricky at first but after a few stitches you will get the hang of it.
Locating the next stitch you will be creating
Insert the needle into the next V remembering you are going one V below the intended stitch
Another example of creating the next stitch
*Tip- you will always be “skipping” the actual stitch you wish to create going below and above it with your yarn. Be mindful of the the direction you are going, in my photos I am working right to left so I am inserting my needle the same way, right to left. If you go left to right you will want to insert your needle left to right.
Repeat steps 4-7 removing markers as you come to them. You may run out of yarn and then you simply cut a new piece remembering to weave in your end as an anchor and continue. Good luck!
